York restaurant wins stunningly good national review, sparks debate about city’s dining scene

One of York’s less flashy eateries has won a brilliant review in the national press.

Le Cochon Aveugle on Walmgate was visited by Marina O’Loughlin of the Guardian and she was bowled over.

Under the headline Le Cochon Aveugle, York: ‘Everything makes us grin like eejits’ Marina says chef Josh Overington “has come up with something a bit special”.

The venison consommé has “astonishing clarity and meaty depth”. The slow-cooked venison is “insanely rich”. The pumpkin and roast onion soup is “of celestial smoothness”.

Marina adds that the only “bum note” was the “chocolate, sea salt and espelette pepper dessert that looks so unfortunately like a little poo” – and even that “tastes glorious”.

She is one impressed critic, concluding: “This tiny, open kitchen is churning out wildly impressive stuff.”

Naturally enough Josh and partner Victoria Roberts were well chuffed, saying they were planning to buy a few copies of the Guardian containing the review on Saturday (March 19).

And there’s more good news – the same team are planning to open a wine bar, as we revealed last week.

The great debate

The review was welcomed by foodie professionals and diners alike…

But it also sparked a debate about the state of the York restaurant scene.

Jess Brammar, a senior journalist on the BBC’s Newsnight, Tweeted Marina to say her boyfriend’s parents lived in York “and we always bemoan lack of great restaurants”.

To which Marina replied, “Weird there are so few, isn’t it? In such a beautiful city.”

But lecturer and writer Sophie Coulombeau leapt to York’s defence. “As an ex-Yorkie, I must protest! Have you been to Le Langhe? or Ambiente?”

And on a previous trip to York, Marina did call the Star Inn The City “a splendid restaurant” and give it top marks.